Life's too interesting to pick a niche
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This is Part 1 of a 2-Part Road Trip. Part 2 will be January's Subscriber Exclusive in The Variety Page Circular.
August 11-14, 2025: Solo camping trip to Breaks Interstate Park (VA/KY) and Mammoth Cave National Park
Monday
I drove 5.5 hours to Breaks Interstate Park on the border of Virginia and Kentucky. The park is located near a deep gorge through the mountains and is known as the Grand Canyon of the South.
On arrival, I asked the check-in desk for hiking suggestions since I wanted to be back before dusk. After parking at my campsite, I made a loop out of Flatwoods, Hickory Ridge, and Mountain Home Trails. These would be good for birding or less strenuous hikes, but there are no views. I didn’t enjoy the hike as much as I might have because it was very humid and also because I started rushing when I noticed that the mountains were blocking the sun and it was getting dark more quickly than I anticipated. I couldn’t find the trail at one point and ended up walking down the road for a ways. Overall, it was a good way to stretch my legs after the long drive, but by the time I made it back to camp, I was ready to set up my tent, build a fire, and relax.
I don’t have reason to regularly build fires, so I always feel accomplished when I am successful. I sat and read a novel. I ate curry straight from the bag, using bread as a spoon and plate. It was less satisfying than I anticipated, but I greatly enjoyed not having dishes to wash. As the time for sunset drew near, I started to get nervous. I’ve been well trained to never leave a fire unattended, but I wanted to go to the lookout to see the sunset.
When the fire seemed low and not sending out sparks, I raced to the lookout. It was only a 10 minute speedwalk from my site. The sun was still high above the ridge. I chatted with a couple who were also waiting for the sunset, but my mind was on the unattended fire. I excused myself to race back and check on it. Grateful that I hadn’t started a wildfire, my heart thumped when the park host slowed down next to my site as I was about to leave. “Be sure to pack away your food in your car,” they said. “We saw a bear on the loop down the hill.” I assured them that I took bear safety precautions seriously. When they drove off, I raced back to the lookout, trying not to trip on roots in the dusk. I arrived when the sun was partly below the ridgeline. It was beautiful, as all sunsets are, but nothing ode-worthy.
Once it was dark, I walked with the couple back to the campground, slowly picking our way over rocks and roots because none of us thought to bring a flashlight for after sunset.
The night was uneventful. I guess the bear found other places to investigate. Tuesday
I woke up early and got on the trail. I wanted to get an hour or two of hiking in before I got on the road again. I took Ridge Trail to Geology Trail to Overlook Trail before returning on Prospector Trail with a short spur on Laurel Branch and Grassy Overlook Trails to get me back to my campsite.
Geology Trail was gorgeous with huge ferns coming out of damp, mossy rocks. It felt like I was in a tropical world, not the middle of the Appalachian mountains.
I ate granola bars and fruit punch for breakfast at Stateline Overlook. I was too late for sunrise, which was good because Geology Trail and the others would be too dangerous in the dark or pre-dawn light, but the early morning light was still beautiful. I suppose that once you’ve seen one mountain covered in green trees with a river far below in a narrow valley, then you’ve seen them all, but there is something exhilarating and freeing about these views.
Again, I rushed my hike because I needed to get on the road. Based on the condition of the trails I took, the park isn’t being overly cautious when it recommends a buddy and hiking poles for Bottom of the Breaks Trail. Even the trails I took had places where I had to carefully move across rocks and wet places. Often, I had to stop and look ahead to find my trail because there was no clear path marked across a jumble of rocks and sharp boulders.
Once back at my campsite, I showered in hot water, packed up my tent, and got on the road. Over five hours later, I arrived at Mammoth Cave National Park.
Subscribe to The Variety Page Circular to journey with me through Mammoth Cave National Park.
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